The Southern cities: This post was brought to you by the Letter K and the fraction ¾ (as we didn’t go to Sihanoukville).

(Get a big cup of tea and settle in folks- its three cities and an epic post)

KEP:

When the morning arrived for us to leave Phnom Penh, we would be lying if we said we weren’t pleased to leave. It was such an intense city that we were quite glad to move on to somewhere even remotely quieter.

On settling the bill with the hotel they tried to rip us off by $4 on the bus tickets, I also think the drinks bill was higher than it should have been too but anyway- I was more fastidious with my bookkeeping after this.

So shortly after we were whisked off to the bus and hurtling out of the city as fast as the bus would go. As it happens this turned into one of the longest short bus journeys we have ever been on. The travel time was 4-5 hrs so enough time to get engrossed in a book or have a sleep. Unfortunately we had barely left the high-rise of the city centre when a guy, in his early 60s we reckon and a hippy rocker type, clearly on something or coming down off something was up demanding to be let off. He was going for Kampot- the next stop after Kep. He stood almost the whole way beside Gav’s seat with some Germans trying to calm him down and get him, unsuccessfully, to return to his seat. So for over 4 hours we had him trying to get off the bus. The poor driver had to get him back on the bus on a number of occasions after he forced his way off at some of the local village drop offs en route.

Road to Kep
Road to Kep, as it was the end of the dry season there was not much growing.
Road to Kep- end of the dry season- not much growing
Road to Kep

We were quite glad when we got into Kep, again into the army of Tuk Tuk drivers (well 8 of them). Our hotel was a bit out so we needed to get one or walk 2km in the heat with our bags plus it was threatening rain and in the end it rained all evening. We still went out in it and got quite wet.

We went for dinner at the Crab Market, they are mostly kept in the baskets and only brought in once ordered. This was taking in the middle of heavy rains on our first night.
We went for dinner at the Crab Market, they are mostly kept in the baskets and only brought in once ordered. This was taking in the middle of heavy rains on our first night.
All he had to do was wait 2 seconds for me to take the photo! In fairness we had just got soaked.
All he had to do was wait 2 seconds for me to take the photo! In fairness we had just got soaked.
French style coffee :)
French style coffee 🙂

The hotel was the most basic we had in Cambodia, fan room, no hot water (it was so hot we barely had lukewarm showers by this point) and no TV but it was clean and bug free so we were very happy with it and we had to pay for everything up front so we had no nasty surprises at the end.

This stuff was foul. Winter melon tea- tasted like the coconut stuff from Phnom Penh. Urrgh.
This stuff was foul. Winter melon tea- tasted like the horrible Thai coconut stuff from Phnom Penh. Urrgh.

Kep is an odd place, mostly because it is so spread out, it was once a fairly popular French colonial town but all that remains of the majority of the once great houses are stripped shells. We were 10 mins walk from the Crab Market (a series of restaurants with a small market beside it), which was 15 mins walk from the beach and then Kep town was about 15-20 mins from that. It’s all spaced out around the National Park which dominates the headland.

Anyway we did very little here, had some food, read some books, found a quiet spot and generally chilled out.

Views across Kep
Views across Kep
Views across Kep, Viewing tower
Views across Kep, Viewing tower
View across the bay to  one of the many monuments.
View across the bay to one of the many monuments.
Mermaid (??) statue.
Mermaid (??) statue.
Villas destroyed by the Khmer Rouge
Villas destroyed during the Khmer Rouge time
Villas destroyed by the Khmer Rouge
Villas destroyed during the Khmer Rouge time
Kep crab! Its a Blue Swimmer Crab
Kep crab! It’s a Blue Swimmer Crab

A few notable things that happened during our stay. One night we decided one night to have dinner in our hotel. They had a lovely roofed roof terrace that was open on all sides and after we had ordered dinner we sat there looking at the big geckos running about the inside of the roof hunting beetles. It was all fun and games until they kept missing and we were having stunned beetles being launched in our direction (many squeals there). It was the fastest dinner we have ever eaten, between the potential attack from beetles and the risk of eating gecko poo from above we didn’t want to hang around long!

We had found a really quiet spot- in a row of beach huts which were allegedly owned by the Rock Royal hotel across the road, the huts were next to their pool and leisure centre. It was mostly used for grazing cattle. The ice-cream man still found us though! We found out later that the pool had been closed as 5 people (mainly kids) had died there in 2 years- the last of which was a teenager from a rich family- that closed it in the end. Apparently some French guy was swimming in it and felt like something was pulling him down. A poorly designed pool creating currents you would think? No apparently it is possessed by a demon. (We heard all this from the owners of Kep Coffee- we popped in there for a quick drink one evening- 3 hrs later and a pizza we left to walk the 40 mins in the dark. The owner, an American and his Cambodian/American wife and kids were very chatty.)

The abandoned beach huts- most of Kep was relatively clean but here was pretty dirty- the huts were free to sit in and we didn't hassled. Apart from the guy selling ice-cream who seemed to sense Gav wanted one.
The abandoned beach huts- most of Kep was relatively clean but here was pretty dirty- the huts were free to sit in and we didn’t hassled. Apart from the guy selling ice-cream who seemed to sense Gav wanted one.
Rabbit Island
Rabbit Island
Testing the long zoom- Rabbit Island Beach
Testing the long zoom- Rabbit Island Beach
Good spot.
Good spot apart from the rubbish.
Fisherman near our hut
Fisherman near our hut
Another fisherman
Fisherman
A poor cow had got it's rope caught on a twig so was running out of stuff to eat. I went to fix it.
A poor cow had got it’s rope caught on a twig so was running out of stuff to eat. I went to fix it.

On our third day we went for a hike in Kep National Park. We saw some very shy monkeys, got verbally abused by some dogs near the summit and then on our walk to our quiet spot we had stones thrown at us by some other monkeys! That evening we went to the Democrat for dinner. It was a good old day.

Millipede
Millipede
Kep National Park
Kep National Park
View over Kep (towards Vietnam)
View over Kep (towards Vietnam)
Views over Kep (Kampot direction)
Views over Kep (Kampot direction)
Easy part of the walk..
Easy part of the walk..
Cool beetle
Cool beetle
Another one.
Another one.
More mountain views
More mountain views
Wild Jackfruit
Wild Jackfruit
Terrace, during high season there is a bar and everything here. Low season it is deserted.
Terrace, during high season there is a bar and everything here. Low season it is deserted.
Butterfly coming in to feed
Butterfly coming in to feed
Spirlal seed pod
Spirlal seed pod
More views
More views
Monkey being quite shy
Monkey being quite shy
Mountain trail
Mountain trail
Arch tree- look closer...
Arch tree- look closer…
Its Gav!
Its Gav!
Monkeys scavenging on the road between the crab market and the beach
Monkeys scavenging on the road between the crab market and the beach
Gav made the mistake of kicking over a banana he found- he chased us a bit after looking for more.
Gav made the mistake of kicking over a banana he found- he chased us a bit after looking for more.
There were about 6 of them.
There were about six of them in total, these three were watching one in a tree
Ah Kep and its sunsets
Ah Kep and its sunsets

2015-04-28 17.37.052015-04-28 17.47.25

Biggest gecko so far, in the Democrat.
Biggest gecko so far, in the Democrat.
Kampot Pepper Crab
Kampot Pepper Crab

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 P1030236

I also decided after a week to come off my anti-malarials. I am hoping this was the right decision- I was getting really badly burned, even with factor 50 on and staying in the shade and my skin felt like it was crawling all the time. The only option left, other than to come home which I REALLY  didn’t want to do was to stop taking them, be as careful as possible and avoid getting bitten and monitor any symptoms that might indicate malaria.

Also during this time I began to see a pattern emerging with regards to the role of women and men in Cambodia. I knew that it was quite a male dominated society but hadn’t really seen much of it towards me in Phnom Penh. In Kep however Gav was constantly addressed and got served first when our food or drinks came out. It wasn’t everywhere of course but where it was it was quite obvious.

After 5 days in Kep we decided to go all the way along the coast to Koh Kong, this confused lots of people as there is not much there other than the Thai border really. Well there is Koh Kong Island- if you believe the hype it has the nicest beach in SE Asia. We can’t verify this as we didn’t go- I was trying to minimise sun exposure for a week to allow the effects of the doxycycline to leave my system. There is also a big jungle which we did investigate…

KOH KONG:

Again not much going on here, like all border towns it was a bit of a weird mix. Lots of older westerners discussing their pots of money at great length across the restaurant however we found two decent places to eat with less discussion of the transfer costs of £50K out of Lloyds. Our first full day there we went out on the moped and had a look around- including drive to the Thai border but we got stopped on the way back- luckily Gav had my passport to show (his was with the moped hire place- it’s the only way to get a moped unfortunately). We also went looking for the other points of interest – beaches, the mangroves, Muslim villages and waterfalls, The waterfalls were impossible to find.

Cambodian Hogwart's?
Cambodian Hogwart’s?
This is as close as we could get to the border. Not really worth the drive in fairness.
This is as close as we could get to the border. Not really worth the drive in fairness.
Zipping past Koh Kong International hotel- its is right next to the border and miles from Koh Kong!
Zipping past Koh Kong International hotel- its is right next to the border and miles from Koh Kong!
Koh Kong Beach- again miles from Koh Kong. Like calling Crosby Beach, Liverpool Beach.
Koh Kong Beach- again miles from Koh Kong. Like calling Crosby Beach, Liverpool Beach.
Koh Kong beach
Koh Kong beach
New Wat by the nice beach- a rather emaciated looking Buddha.
New Wat by the nice beach- a rather emaciated looking Buddha.
Wat entrance and Beach
Wat entrance and Beach
The nice beach apparently- opposite Koh Kong. Stopped here for 30 mins for a juice and a swing in a Hammock- ended up with coke as there were no coconuts apparently.
The nice beach apparently- opposite Koh Kong. Stopped here for 30 mins for a juice and a swing in a Hammock- ended up with coke as there were no coconuts apparently.
Hammock!
Hammock!
Beach restaurant
Beach restaurant
Mangroves - end of the dry season.
Mangroves – end of the dry season.
Fish with luminescent noses- Mangrove Forest
Fish with luminescent noses- Mangrove Forest
Gav and the bridge over the Mangrove river.
Gav and the bridge over the Mangrove river.
Views from the concrete tower, almost sunset.
Views from the concrete tower, almost sunset.
Bridge over the river, Believe it or not they built a resort here. You can just about make out the swimming pool (we couldnt believe it) and the restaurant. There were also over a dozen little houses in amongst the Mangrove. All abandoned half finished.
Bridge over the river, Believe it or not they built a resort here. You can just about make out the swimming pool (we couldn’t believe it) and the restaurant. There were also over a dozen little houses in amongst the Mangrove. All abandoned half finished.
Mangrove.
Mangrove.
Fishermen and a speedboat..
Fishermen and a speedboat..
Creepy fish.. Mangrove forest
Creepy fish.. Mangrove forest
Boats on the river, Koh Kong
Boats on the river, Koh Kong
Koh Kong houses on the river. It looks alot cleaner than it was.
Koh Kong houses on the river. It looks a lot cleaner than it was.

Another highlight was a gekco joining us for breakfast one morning, see the video here.

Also we went into the jungle, swam in two waterfall pools, got attacked by leeches, slept in an army hammock in the jungle, tried some local medicinal plants and vegetables and saw the devastation of illegal mahogany poaching. It was good fun but probably the highlight was watching millions of ants move nest along with their heard of white mites. It went on all night. Also we got to hear the hornbill calling and then a swoosh/or something that sounded like a giant exhale and then they glided over the canopy- it was so far up we couldn’t get a photo and we often saw the bright red flash of a squirrel zipping through the trees, they are also very photo shy!

All set for the Jungle
All set for the Jungle
After surviving 5 km and a flat tire on a moped driven by a 10 year old girl- yep no age limit for driving here yet.
After surviving 5 km and a flat tire on a moped driven by a 10 year old girl- yep no age limit for driving here yet.
Rubber tree.
Rubber tree.
Spider from the back- the following day we saw it from the front..
Spider from the back- the following day we saw it from the front..its far more scary from the front.
Ants nest
Ants nest
Water skater
Water skater
Baby Iguana
Baby Iguana
One of the rest stops to check for leeches.
One of the rest stops to check for leeches.
One of the rest stops to check for leeches.
One of the rest stops to check for leeches.
It is also one of the many waerfalls in the area.
It is also one of the many waerfalls in the area.
Believe it or not this is a type of potato- it did look like a testicle though. It grew above ground with a spiked stem.
Believe it or not this is a type of potato- it did look like a testicle though. It grew above ground with a spiked stem.
Type of wild fruit- the guy didn't know the name but it is only eaten by birds.
Type of wild fruit- the guy didn’t know the name but it is only eaten by birds.
That grey funnel is the soil cast from a type of snake.
That grey funnel is the soil cast from a type of snake.
Rattan, as used for rattan furniture.
Rattan, as used for rattan furniture.
Ants nest- they get angry when you poke holes in it like our guide did.
Ants nest- they get angry when you poke holes in it like our guide did.
Wild fruit.
Wild fruit.
Tasted like bitter lime.
Tasted like bitter lime.
Tree that was popular with woodpeckers.
Tree that was popular with woodpeckers.
Pitcher plant!
Pitcher plant!
Another rest spot for de-leeching.
Another rest spot for de-leeching.
Lunch above the leeches. They still managed to find you though.
Lunch above the leeches. They still managed to find you though.
Lizard.
Lizard.
These things are brilliant! They look like crazy moths but have no wings so jump everywhere. Thanks to Google I have identified it as a Flattid Planthopper Nymph. The hang out in groups that look like fluffy lichen
These things are brilliant! They look like crazy moths but have no wings so jump everywhere. Thanks to Google I have identified it as a Flattid Planthopper Nymph. The hang out in groups that look like fluffy lichen.
Two pals
Two pals
Lung plant. I think it's some sort of tree parasite.
Lung plant. I think it’s some sort of tree parasite.
Passing to a leech free zone.
Passing to a leech free zone.
Next to our camp
Next to our camp
The camp
The camp
The Hammocks.
The Hammocks.
Cooking area
Cooking area

P1030406, Photo: LP

Our waterfall and pool- natures shower :)
Our waterfall and pool- natures shower 🙂
BBQ prep
BBQ prep
The ants preparing for the next move.
The ants preparing for the next move.
BBQ!
BBQ!
Dinner is served.
Dinner is served.
Bonfire by the river.
Bonfire by the river.
The ants moving the mites
The ants moving the mites

 
P1030476, Photo: GP

Grasshopper
Grasshopper
Tree bridge over a gorge
Tree bridge over a gorge

 P1030489, Photo: GP

 P1030492, Photo: GP

The massive spider from the front- a skull on his back!!
The massive spider from the front- a skull on his back!!

P1030525, Photo: GP

Leech!!! These are horrible- small mobile and hungry for blood.
Leech!!! These are horrible- small mobile and hungry for blood.

P1030538, Photo: GP

I could not get a photo of this guy with his wings open- they were the most brilliant blue colour.
I could not get a photo of this guy with his wings open- they were the most brilliant blue colour.
You can see a hint of it here
You can see a hint of it here

P1030566, Photo: GP

View across the Cardamom mountains.
View across the Cardamom mountains.

P1030541, Photo: GP

TaTai waterfall
TaTai waterfall
Great spot for a leg massage.
Great spot for a leg massage.

After 5 days in Koh Kong (the last one was pretty much just sleeping), we went right back along the coast to Kampot. The hotel bus we thought was a bit expensive for what it was at $10 (you had your own seat) so went with one that The Wood House had for $8. Naively we assumed this was the same bus as the hotel with less commission it wasn’t. It was a local bus. It wasn’t too bad though for the first 4 hours but the last one was awful. Every available space was packed with fruit/veg including where our feet were and it moved back as we were driving resulting in even less space. There were four of us in the back (a Khmer girl, a very old lady, me and Gav) and two guys in the front seat. The driver had a massive wad of cash and we stopped at random huts on the road out of Koh Kong to hand out small portions to various people. Initially we thought this might have been payment for produce from a previous run but when there were what looked to be Police and customs getting their “commission” we saw what it really was. A wad of giant lollipops to keep everyone happy.

See those grey things just under the door? Those are our bags. Funny thing was this wasn't the most stuffed car- there was one with a motorbike with a guy squashed behind and one with a chap sitting on some sacks on the roof.
See those grey things just under the door? Those are our bags. Funny thing was this wasn’t the most stuffed car- there was one with a motorbike with a guy squashed behind and one with a chap sitting on some sacks on the roof.

KAMPOT:

We arrived in Kampot and were pointed in the direction of our hotel. None of our previous hotels in Cambodia came with breakfast so in comparison with Vietnam we were spending an extra $8 a day just on that so for Kampot we scoured around on the various booking sites to find one with good reviews and a breakfast included and found Kampot Manor.

It was run by an Aussie, we paid $20 a night (a steal for the quality), the beds were amazing, it had a huge terrace to sit and admire the view, free tea and coffee, free fruit (one day I had 3 whole mangos- he has 15 mango trees laden with fruit and by the last day we were the only ones staying) and breakfast was ace. It was probably the nicest breakfast we’ve had in the 6 weeks travelling. We had juice (from concentrate but better than nothing), cornflakes, fresh fruit (3 of the following per day: pink dragon fruit, grapes, mango, orange), eggs or omelette (we had scrambled eggs with bacon and tomato). It was 15 mins walk from town so a bit out and we had to climb over some barriers to get onto the Old Bridge to get to the town but was well worth it.

View from the hotel terrace.
View from the hotel terrace.

Kampot itself is a sleepy little town, again a former French colonial town, with a huge ex-pat community. About half the restaurants and accommodation seem to be owned by non-Cambodians. Its got a pretty good vibe going on and we wished we had stayed there longer.

2015-05-09 18.18.47
The King of Fruits- Durian Roundabout
2015-05-09 18.41.58
Fresh noodles
Cocktails at sunset
Cocktails at sunset- again it was a 2-4-1 thing. Mai Tai and Pina Colada.

The day after we arrived we hired a moped to go up to Bokor Hill Station also known as Thansur Bokor Highland Resort. The main attraction up there is an old French resort consisting of a number of old buildings including a hotel, church and various other residences. The area was abandoned a number of times but for good during the time of the Khmer Rouge, in fact the old hotel was one of their last strongholds in the region. Now there is a new road built by the Chinese which brings you all the way to the top to the new hotel and casino. They have also leased the whole top of the mountain for this crazy plan to build 100,000 homes and all the extra bits like golf courses, lakes etc. Apart from the fact that it is a national park- home to all sorts of wildlife and they are building that in the middle of it, it is also really cold up there and often covered in fog, thick fog at that. It’s lunacy. The old French stuff at Bokor Hill Station such as the hotel and church (which are also earmarked for development/restoration) is interesting but the other sights up there aren’t really worth it. Especially the seasonal waterfall. It is bone dry and covered in stagnant pools with mosquitos at this time of year. The road up, the old hotel and the way down were the best bits- spectacular views over the south coast.

Entrance to the Resort/Mountain
Entrance to the Resort/Mountain

P1030592, Photo:: LP P1030596 Photo:: LP P1030601Photo:: LP

 P1030605 P1030616, Photo:: LP P1030617

P1030737, Photo: LP
Lok Yeay Mao statue half way up the mountain and looking out to sea
There is a rather ambitious plan to put something like 100,000 homes up on the mountain, all with swimming pools, community activity centres etc. It is foggy and cold at the top of the mountain. I'm not sure how this will work
This is the plan for the top of the mountain- there is a whole building bigger than a Tesco metro with this model in!

P1030627

P1030628P1030629

The gaudy new hotel....
The gaudy new hotel….
...and casino
…and casino
Other smaller hotels still being built
Other smaller hotels still being built
Chinese Pagoda.
Chinese Pagoda.
Spooky abandoned French Church.
Spooky abandoned French catholic church.
Gav being consumed by the fog..
Gav being consumed by the fog..
Graffiti in the church
Graffiti in the church
Other abandoned buildings
Other abandoned buildings
Other abandoned buildings
Other abandoned buildings

P1030653 P1030654

The old hotel
The old hotel
The old hotel
The old hotel

P1030662 P1030666 P1030667 P1030668 P1030670 P1030673

Look what is in the background
Nice plants but look what is in the background.

P1030692

How can we look so miserable when being photobombed by a butterfly? It was cold and damp.
How can we look so miserable when being photobombed by a butterfly? It was cold and damp.

The following day we went climbing with Climbodia! They had a half day taster of climbing, via ferreta, absailing and caving. It was lots of fun, but incredibly dirty and dusty. The three young fellas who worked there were great fun too 17, and two 21 year olds.

View from top of the cliff.
View from top of the cliff.
Gav's first climb.
Gav’s first climb.
At the top- the two guys in the middle were our guides, the guy on the right was a friend of theirs.
At the top- the two guys in the middle were our guides, the guy on the right was a friend of theirs.
Damn it was hot, already sweaty after first climb.
Damn it was hot, already sweaty after first climb.
So we were 30 m up having gone round the top of the cliff by via ferrata and this french guy appears!  Total ninja!
So we were 30 m up having gone round the top of the cliff by via ferrata and this french guy appears! Total ninja!
Gav abseiling down
Gav abseiling down
Gav halfway down, having been told to keep both hands on the rope the instructor asked him to wave, so eventually he did..
Gav halfway down, having been told to keep both hands on the rope the instructor asked him to wave, so eventually he did..
That is the face of slight panic.
That is the face of slight panic.
P1030787
As I took ages, one of our guides started taking photos

P1030796 P1030801

Bamboo railway.
Bamboo railway. Yep I was still on my way down..
Two hearts- big and small- can you see them?
Two hearts- big and small- can you see them?
Then we did some caving.
Then we did some caving.
P1030836
I think this was a monkey or a squirrel or something.
Elephant
Elephant
P1030842
Some sort of cave hopper.

P1030833

Gav is also a bit ninja.
Gav is also a bit ninja.

P1030849

This was so much harder than the Climbing Hanger
This was so much harder than the Climbing Hanger

P1030877 P1030878

We also went to see a pepper farm- we had applied to one on Workaways but never heard anything back and I think we went to see the same one-It was all in random states of being built. Yet another resort. We had to give ourselves a tour of the farm bit and they had an incredibly expensive shop- 2 ice-creams for $4 and a coke $1.50 (normally a dollar or less). It was a bit of a mission to get here down a dusty and bumpy road lined with bomb craters and small villages. We did attempt to go to a temple in a mountain too but there were some teenagers wanting $1 to mind the bike- 1000 rials (25c) was the normal price- we decided not to bother. It was hot and we were dirty and in no mood for teenagers and their nonsense.

Pepper Plantation
Pepper Plantation

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P1030899 P1030901

P1030906

Gav as a unit of measurement
Gav as a unit of measurement

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Secret lake- man made lake by the chinese.
Secret lake- man made lake by the chinese.
Dragonfly and nymphs? I didn't even see them when I took the photo
Dragonfly and nymphs? I didn’t even see them when I took the photo

P1030925 P1030931

Temple by a school
Temple by a school
Temple by a school
Temple by a school
Temple by a school
Temple by a school

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A reminder of the past. Thankfully this area of Cambodia is now landmine free. But there are still some in other rural areas affecting people to this day.
A reminder of the past. Thankfully this area of Cambodia is now landmine free. But there are still some in other rural areas affecting people to this day.
One of the many landmine craters near Kampot
One of the many B-52 bomb craters near Kampot.

P1030953

After four days in Kampot it was sadly time to move on. So the following day we booked the Giant Ibis (the expensive bus at $24 each), that everyone raves about, to Siem Reap to see one of the Wonders of the World, Angkor Wat!

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5 thoughts on “The Southern cities: This post was brought to you by the Letter K and the fraction ¾ (as we didn’t go to Sihanoukville).

  1. So sorry to be a bit behind in catching up on your travels, busy few weeks. Still loving the blog and most impressed by the prawns Lynn…you guys have packed loads in to such a short space of time and the blog is really evocative. Can’t wait to hear about Siem Reap! Hope the bits have gone by now, Victoria xxx

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    1. 🙂 no worries glad you are enjoying it! Hope all is well with you, we’ve had super crappy internet everywhere! We are meeting Stu tomorrow and heading to the river Kwai then to Pattaya for a few days. Maybe try FaceTime you guys from there? Hope all is well

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      1. Give our love to Stu and yes please do FaceTime us from Thailand. Hope you enjoyed Angkor Wat!

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